Everglades National Park once covered almost 11,000
square miles of South Florida. Just a century ago, water flowed down the
Kissimmee River into Lake Okeechobee, then south through the vast Everglades to
Florida Bay, the ultimate destination of uninterrupted sheetflow. Because of
efforts to drain the marshland for agriculture, development and flood control,
the Everglades is today half the size it was a century ago. This "River of
Grass" is a mosaic of sawgrass marshes, freshwater ponds, prairies and
forested uplands that supports a rich plant and wildlife community. Renowned
for its wading birds and wildlife, the Everglades is home to dozens of
federally threatened and endangered species, including the Florida panther,
American crocodile, snail kite and wood stork. The mix of salt and fresh water
makes it the only place on Earth where alligators and crocodiles exist side by
side.
Just a few hours into my exploration of the Everglades
National Park, and already my sense of time seems to be warping. Maybe it's the
primordial beauty of the place a dinosaur wouldn't look entirely out of place
here, sloshing through the wet prairies. Maybe the British couple I met the
night before, inside a small twangy barroom with a giant stuffed alligator in
command of one corner, contributed to this time-warp spell: They were girding
themselves for a road trip through the park with the giddy trepidation of 19th-century
explorers embarking upon an expedition, anticipating not the highlights we
associate with modern leisure travel a hot restaurants, hotel spa treatments,
luxurious Instagram moments but the wildlife, the exotic heat, the immersion
into a gorgeously alien landscape.
Main Attractions
Pine
Forest
The highest areas of the park, which lie several feet
above the low areas, are covered by forests of slash pine and plants like the
saw palmetto which grows in the mulch of fallen pine needles. These are called
"pinelands" or "pine flatwoods." The term "slash
pine" is derived from the old practice of slashing their bark to get sap
to make turpentine. Other pines which are found in these areas include longleaf
pine, southern Florida slash pine, and pond pine. The floor of these forests is
rough, rugged, and rocky.
Sawgress
Marsh
The heart of the Everglades is the vast sawgrass
marshes, the largest of its kind in the world. Prior to the engineering efforts
of the human residents of Florida, these marshes were once part of a huge,
shallow river 50 miles wide and 120 miles long running from Lake Okeechobee in
the north to Florida Bay in the south. Noted naturalist and defender of the
Everglades Marjorie Stoneman Douglas appropriately termed these areas the
"River of Grass." This river was created from overflowing water from
the lake running slowly--on the order of a foot or so a minute--across the
slightly inclined floor of south Florida. From a geological perspective, this
environment and the Everglades themselves are quite young, perhaps 5000 years.
Mangrove
Swamp
In areas near the coast where the salt water of the
gulf and Florida Bay meets the fresh water traveling from Lake Okechobee is
realm of the mangrove trees. These trees prefer brackish water, and are
responsible for creation of much new land because their roots and trunks trap
organic material in the water. Mangrove swamps cover more than 500 square miles
in the park.
Coastal
Prairie
One other type of landform found in the extreme
southern section of the park is the coastal prairie. These areas contain meadows
and woodlands of buttonwood, gumbo limbo, hardwoods of other types, yucca, and
grasses. Coastal Prairie One other type of landform found in the extreme
southern section of the park is the coastal prairie, shown below. These areas
contain meadows and woodlands of buttonwood, gumbo limbo, hardwoods of other
types, yucca, and grasses.
Hardwood
Hammocks
Few trees grow within the sawgrass marshes themselves
since their roots would be covered by water during a significant portion of the
year. However, within the marsh are places where the limestone is just a couple
of feet higher, high enough to permit hardwood trees like mahogany, gumbo
limbo, cocoa palm, and other plants to grow. These areas, which may range from
an acre or so to hundreds of acres, remain dry year round. The hammock creates its
own protective environment, often cooler than the surrounding glades.
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